Katie Parsons recently travelled to the Salta province in the northwest of Argentina and discovered a region of stunning canyons, high altitude vineyards and beautiful colonial architecture.
After a couple of days exploring Buenos Aires and the obligatory visit to the Iguazú Falls, most tourists head south to Patagonia or west to the Lake District. Instead, I flew 2 hours north to Salta, one of Argentina’s few remaining colonial cities and home of the empanada: a small pasty-like snack filled with mince, ham or cheese and potato and they won’t be found better anywhere else!
The main highlights of Salta are the rather pink cathedral on one side of Plaza 9 de Julio and the Cabildo on the opposite. The beautifully painted San Francisco church is another example of the colonial architecture the Spanish left behind. Its bright, deep red and yellow exterior makes it one of Salta’s most photographed buildings. Read More
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The excellent-value 
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Argentina: The Andean Northwest
Katie Parsons recently travelled to the Salta province in the northwest of Argentina and discovered a region of stunning canyons, high altitude vineyards and beautiful colonial architecture.
After a couple of days exploring Buenos Aires and the obligatory visit to the Iguazú Falls, most tourists head south to Patagonia or west to the Lake District. Instead, I flew 2 hours north to Salta, one of Argentina’s few remaining colonial cities and home of the empanada. These small pasty-like snacks come filled with mince, ham or cheese and potato and they won’t be found better anywhere else!
The main highlights of Salta are the rather pink cathedral on one side of Plaza 9 de Julio and the Cabildo on the opposite. Legend has it that anyone who walks round the back of the fountain in the middle of the square won’t ever get married, which explained the semi-circle of empty benches. The beautifully painted San Francisco church is another example of the colonial architecture the Spanish left behind. Its bright, deep red and yellow exterior makes it one of Salta’s most photographed buildings.
The recently opened MAAM Museum (Museum of High Altitude Archaeology) in Salta is also a worthwhile visit. In March 1999, three Inca children were found frozen at the peak of Mount Llullaillaco, 6700m above sea level, where they were sacrificed more than 500 years ago. The well-preserved mummies of the Llullaillaco Children are now displayed along with their accompanying artefacts in the museum. Having been previously amazed by the mummy of Juanita in Peru, these are even more well-preserved and eerily lifelike!
However, for me the real focus of my visit wasn’t the city of Salta but the scenery and Andean villages of Salta province. What surprised me most about this rural region were the incredibly high standards of accommodation that are available in even the most remote places.
The Calchaquí Valley and surrounding canyons are a hidden gem in Argentina’s northwest Andean region. The journey to get into the valley is just as stunning as the valley itself. The road leaves Salta’s Valle de Lerma and snakes up the Cuesta del Obispo (Bishop’s Summit) to a height of 3330 m above sea level. As the road finally enters the Parque Nacional de las Cardones (Cardon National Park) the landscape levels out to vast plains of cardon cacti resembling troops of soldiers standing to attention.
Heading south down the Ruta 40 are the charming Andean villages of Cachi and Molinos. With narrow cobblestoned streets and small churches, either village provides a relaxing stop in the journey. Cachi, the larger of the two, also has a small archaeology museum and the relaxed way of life is a welcome change from the bustle of Buenos Aires and even Salta.
The Ruta 40 is Argentina’s equivalent of the M1. Running from Ushuaia in the far south almost to the Bolivian border in the north, the Ruta 40 traverses the entire country. Seeing the kilometre markers along the road showing we were still 4489kms from Ushuaia puts into perspective the enormous length of Argentina. Unlike the M1, much of it is one-lane and from Cachi to Cafayate, through the Calchaquí Valley, it is a single-track dirt road. But the scenery is breathtaking.
From Molinos it is a 3-½ hour drive to Cafayate along the dusty road through the Quebrada de las Flechas (Canyon of Arrows) with striking photo stops along the way. All of the formations are made from sand blown across from the Chilean Atacama Desert and are caused entirely by wind erosion since the region receives virtually no rain.
Cafayate is the heart of the province’s wine production. The vineyards are at some of the highest altitudes in the world, which winemakers are active to promote as the winning formula of their wines. Within walking distance of the town are numerous vineyards offering guided tours and complimentary wine tasting and in Cafayate it’s possible to buy Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon flavoured ice cream. For the wine enthusiasts it is possible to stay at some of the estancias in the vineyards and get an authentic wine experience. Among my favourites were the Estancia Colomé near Molinos and Patios de Cafayate on the outskirts of Cafayate.
The four-hour return drive from Cafayate to Salta is on tarmac roads and passes through the Quebrada del Rio de las Conchas (Canyon of the River of Shells). Photo stops are made at impressive natural rock formations such as Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), El Amfiteatro (the Amphitheatre) El Fraile (the Monk), El Obelisco (the Obelisk) and other imaginatively named formations.
Heading north from Salta towards the Bolivian border the colourful canyons and aptly named ‘Cerro de Siete Colores’ (Hill of Seven Colours) are the must-see attractions of Jujuy Province. The oxidisation process of the different minerals is shown in varying red and green colours, which seem to change during the day depending on the position of the sun. The small village of Tilcara is home to the ruins of an impressive Inca fortress, and its colourful market sells a wide array of typical Andean souvenirs and products made from the ubiquitous cardon cacti, which grows in abundance throughout the region.
At the northern end of the canyon, the charming town of Humahuaca could easily be confused with a village in the Peruvian Andes and highlights how significant the Incas were and the extents of the empire that they maintained. The narrow streets, some cobbled, some dust, lead to a small square with an even smaller and unusual looking church. Everywhere Quechan ladies are selling handicrafts and souvenirs and as it is at an altitude of 2800m above sea level, the coca leaf abounds as a common Andean preventative measure to help alleviate symptoms of altitude sickness.
Being in Buenos Aires or Patagonia it is easy to think the Incas had no influence at all on the southern cone of Latin America, but they did reach the region of Salta. In many ways it is a shame that this part of Argentina is so seldom visited, but the lack of people and the remoteness of some of the sights adds to its unique charm. The stunning landscapes, excellent food and delicious wine make a trip here definitely worthwhile.